Finding the nicest places to eat
With family, friends
and a small brown dog.
Finding the nicest places to eat
With family, friends
and a small brown dog.
Not the musical variety, in fact I don’t think I’ve ever been to one of those home or away. There were Glasgow’s Big Day concerts in 1990, somehow I got into the then Copthorne hotel to watch the George Square gig and then went down to Glasgow Green in the evening (that was the time Sheena Easton got booed* for her Mid Atlantic twang); and I was at the Nelson Mandela Tribute concert at Wembley the same year, but the full mud and music experience? No. The festivals I mean are the holiday ones, Christmas, New Year, Twelfth Night, Thanksgiving. The latter one first, but far from traditionally when two of MrS’s American colleagues invited us to celebrate it with them in Curacao, instead of turkey we ate curry.
Then in 2016 while we were in the throes of building works we sought out some Christmas sunshine in Lanzarote
And last year we welcomed the arrival of the Kings in Tenerife
This year we spent New Year or Saint Sylvestre in France.
Of course there were still signs of Christmas
and portents of L’Epiphanie
But the main event was New Year.
Restaurants offered festival menus
Here are those puds
But it seemed lots of people would be enjoying seafood platters at home
Midnight and the arrival of 2019 was a low key affair. We headed to the Mairie
to watch the clock.
But missed the crowds you’d see in Scotland
It was a little livelier at the casino
where we could hear a party. But we just enjoyed the lights and headed back to our hotel.
Where we might* have had a kiss under the mistletoe**
Best wishes for 2019 and Happy New Year to anyone celebrating it tonight.
***”gui” in French it appeared in the shops on New Year’s Eve
PS Almost back home I became “King” of the day when I found the bean in our pie
What will I write in my diary tonight?
Last Thursday in Deauville was mostly about food!
It might have been a tad chilly outdoors but this was our favourite cafe and we didn’t want to leave @southfieldchat (aka B) behind. That would have added insult to injury. Thursday was “le vet” day, she had to go for her mandatory examination and worm treatment before travelling back to the UK.
After breakfast we had a little urban walk,
made a note to buy our Gallette du Roi, and stopped for another coffee.
After that it was time for “le vet”. Now we’ve been to France twice before with B and had two very different experiences at the vets. First time in Ile de Re was great with a nice young vet who did a very thorough examination and was kind and gentle; second time around in Bergerac, mmm a little less so, the vet had a blood spattered tunic and did a strange “flip” manoeuvre to check B’s bones. She was very much less than impressed. Happily Mme le Vet. in Deauville was lovely and certainly came top in B’s book. She hid the tablet in cheese! B would have stayed there all day.
“What? That was medicine?!?!?”
Wormed, passed fit and with all her papers signed (in all the right places ****) B was legal for re-entry to the UK and we were all free to enjoy the afternoon. So we a took little drive along the coast to Villerville where we popped into a Brocante and took B for a walk on the beach. Because that’s her favourite thing, home or away.
And well, we might have had a spot of lunch……
Villerville was the location for the 1960s movie un Singe en Hiver (in English “A Monkey in Winter” or “It’s Hot in Hell”) and the Cabaret Normand is a restaurant still, but we ate galletes in the creperie across the road.
Now you might think that after all that we’d be done with food for the day, and you could be justified in thinking that. But you’d also be wrong. Very, very wrong.
This was our last evening after all!
We’d booked at one of Deauville’s Michelin starred restaurants***: Maximin Hellio.
I don’t have many photos of the food, we were too busy enjoying it.
We’d chosen our menu when we booked but hadn’t realised it would be at the “chef’s table”, actually a very comfortable banquette looking into the kitchen. Normally that wouldn’t be my choice but this was interesting, and as things got less busy M. Hellio chatted to us, well mostly to MrS. I’m fairly proficient at reading menus and know more food vocab. than any other type but struggle with anything more than basic conversation. But even with my poor language skills I could appreciate the care and pleasure he put into his craft.
We left clutching our loot, boxed up petit fours we were too full to eat and an autographed Michelin guide. Stopping off in the Place for one last look at the Christmas lights and then back to the hotel and our beds.
***the other is L’Essentiel (more about that later)
****VERY IMPORTANT, we’ve seen dogs turned away at Calais even though they’d been to a vet but their passports had been stamped or signed in the wrong place.
Two quite different short trips.
First off to Glasgow for an urban adventure (though we’ve been there lots before).
Our bed for the night was new, both to us and Glasgow at the brand new Motel One ; they even had photos from the West Highland line to make us feel at home. It’s close to Central station and the shops and is very, very dog friendly.
If you don’t know the Motel One brand they are well worth checking out. We’ve stayed at their Princes Street branch and they’re also in Newcastle and Manchester.
I couldn’t go to Glasgow without visiting the shops but it’s not quite as dog friendly as Edinburgh, possibly because a lot of my favourites (eg. Whistles, Space NK ) which are dog friendly there are inside malls in Glasgow. The massive Waterstones branch on Sauchiehall Street is dog friendly though, as is Anta and lots of lovely independents on and around Great Western Road. Luckily it was mostly sunny and MrS was happy to wait outside on Buchanan Street while I shopped, and of course Dog S loved all the attention from passers by.
It wasn’t all consumerism though, nor sitting about for DogS. We had a pretty extensive walkies, in fact I covered more steps than I do at home. I’ve walked all over Edinburgh and explored many overseas cities on foot but apart from shopping trips Glasgow on foot has been a path less travelled.
Glasgow is full of impressive buildings, also some haunting ruins. The city centre is full of memories of Glasgow’s time as “second city of empire” and those Victorians didn’t limit their exuberance to building for commerce; on a hill behind the Cathedral is the Necropolis.
It’s a good place for a walk with views over the whole city – and on a clear day up to the highlands.
I thought back to our visit when I read this post today**.
And our second trip? Quite different, over the sea to ….. Tiree, the most westerly of the Inner Hebrides. Because of its westerly position it’s much sunnier and drier than many of the islands and also much windier! So windy in fact that it’s a hub for surfing and windsurfing, the Tiree Wave Classic had been held the weekend before our visit.
We stayed at The Old Thatch in Scarinish, small and cosy just perfect for two people and one dog. A traditional two roomed cottage it would have housed a large family well into the 20th century.
Now Tiree’s built environment might be a tad less grandiose than Glasgow’s (though very attractive) but its beaches would be hard to beat.
And it was even warm and sunny enough for a picnic
Our lunch spot was close to the Ringing Stone an “Erratic” which landed on Tiree after a volcanic eruption. Don’t worry about getting hit on the head by flying rocks though, it happened millennia ago. Nearby basking seals jumped into the sea and swam close to get a good look at us.
the Ringing Stone
It wasn’t all gorgeous natural beauty though, once again all too much plastic waste washed in by the tide. When the shells are sand the plastic will still be around.
Two short but sweet breaks, each lovely in their own way.
PS. I’m just back from a shorter trip, just one night in Perth. A shout out to Gringos a lovely, lively bar, dog friendly of course with great food and friendly staff. Not the place for a quiet romantic night perhaps but well worth a visit. Another plus for Perth(shire), a selection of libraries have introduced dog friendly Fridays . No accommodation report because I like to post positive reviews, the only plus point being DogS could come too.
*The Necropolis, Glasgow Cathedral and Infirmary (in the background right).
** I was a bit delayed completing and posting this.
We’ve had another short break, this time to the slightly less balmy climes of Islay. Storm Callum had been raging, flooding our local shopping centre, cancelling ferries and generally causing mayhem (and very sadly loss of life) but luckily had subsided by the time we needed to travel. Still we stopped off to fortify and warm ourselves up with a hobbity second breakfast at the lovely Smiddy Bistro
Then it was back on the road to Kennacraig to join the Finlaggan
We’ve travelled to Islay before but always as a means of visiting Jura and though we did make a quick trip over, this time it was all about Islay.
It’s probably best known as a distillery island and while we popped into the newest* one Kilchoman for some lunch (and picked up a bottle to take home) we were more interested in exploring some of Islay’s spectacular beaches.
And of course DogS approved of this option.
Even thought sun was shining I was not tempted to paddle, these beaches Machir and Saligo bays face out into the Atlantic and have dangerous rip tides and fierce waves. I didn’t want to risk DogS following me and getting swept away.
I found a piece of slate and made my mark
But was very aware of leaving no trace…
Unfortunately even on these wild and fairly remote beaches that wasn’t always the case
We couldn’t manage to take away this plastic but removed a few “poo bags” worth of sweetie wrappers, plastic bottles and cable ties. And then because I was looking for obvious litter I began to see the tiny ground up pieces of plastic which we’d have had to sieve the sand to remove.
MrS didn’t miss out on his history fix, as well as the distillery and gorgeous beaches Kilchoman is home to this ancient carved cross and a poignant military cemetery marking the loss of the Otranto in 1918.
And true to form good food and drink was enjoyed, though we couldn’t take advantage of the bar at the Bowmore hotel. (We were driving)
DogS didn’t miss out
A walk through Bridgend woods gave DogS some good sniffs
And she could sniff but didn’t see this fine guy at Islay Woollen Mill
And we got the shivers listening to the seal song at Portnahaven
A very short visit but great fun and still lots to return and explore
And a few treats to take home.
Until next time
*Kilchoman is the newest until Ardnahoe opens later this year.
Or as you may know it, Seville. Fourth largest city in Spain, known (according to MrS) as El Sarten – the frying pan, due to its hot climate. Summer runs from May to October so we enjoyed a change from the wet and wind of home. Mmmmm, temperatures of 30 degrees, bright sunshine and warm nights, sandals, summer dresses and restaurants gently misting their outside terraces.
MrS even sat out on our terrace in shorts!
It really was a short break but a predawn flight from Edinburgh helped maximise our time. Mind you we didn’t feel so chirpy about that getting up at 4am.
It had been a while since we’d been to such a major tourist city so the queue for the Cathedral and the crowds inside were a bit disconcerting. Especially when you consider that it’s the biggest Gothic Cathedral in the world. It was only after we’d visited that we read the guide book recommendation to avoid the worst of the queues outside by buying the joint visit ticket from St Salvador church, oops!
So, magnificent though it is, it wasn’t my favourite visit and we ended up giving the other “must see” site a miss; when we arrived at the Real Alcazar we couldn’t face the queue winding around the block.
But we found some absolutely wonderful places to visit which were all but empty.
The Ceramics Museum in the Triana district, across the river from the Cathedral and Palace was once home to the ceramics industry and one former factory is now a beautiful museum.
The industry may have gone but tiles are still all around.
Another quieter but definitely worth visiting place was the Museum of Popular Arts and Culture it’s free to EU citizens so our timing was good for that one.
Of course food and drink featured prominently
the patio of the Caridad Hospital
On our last morning we admired more of Murillo and his great inspiration Zurbaran at the Fine Arts Museum
Then we continued our “tradition”** of a last day long lunch at Taberna de la Albardero
…..followed by a visit to the church of St Salvador where we should have started out.
Three busy days and nights and plenty more to go back for.
*Murillo Close up – “The miracle of the loaves and fishes” and “Moses drawing water from the rock”
**we’ve done it once, maybe twice before
We stayed at the Hotel Inglaterra which has a great central position on Plaza Nueva, and our room had a fabulous terrace with views (breakfast pic)
We loved our first lunch at El Pinton in the Santa Cruz district and I would recommend the amazing tempura egg. (next to breakfast pic)
I may have written this before but there are few things that can’t be brightened up by a little brown dog. Recently two much loved local dogs have died; I’ll miss seeing them about, though nowhere near as much as their people will and it’s made me specially glad to have B around.
Part of the joy of walking with a dog is the pleasure they seem to get from their surroundings. B meanders from side to side, on “zombie pawtrol” as it’s known by her Twitter pals. I think she mostly “sees” through her nose but mine is a little further from the sniffs so I decided to look in the more conventional way.
It was a grey, drizzly morning which may accentuate the smells, it can bring sparkle to things you might overlook.
There was an advertising campaign last year or so with the strapline “Be more dog”. I can’t remember what the product was but it’s not a bad way to be.
Autumn leaves fall, all things pass; sometimes I’m happy, sometimes I’m not. Sometimes I fret. But sometimes I can find my inner dog.
I’ve walked at some pivotal points my life. When I first moved to Edinburgh my Saturday afternoons were often spent walking, exploring the pages of my street map. Yes I was really living the wild student life. I noticed that the houses preening from the hillside beyond Morningside road reminded me of home. Even though those ones were large detacheds in Fairmilehead rather than small terraces clinging on the valley. I plodded about the town, plotting my routes in coloured inks, searching in vain for Haymarket Ice Rink; that book was out of date several years before I found it. It paid off though, I got to know my adopted city beyond the student and tourist hubs.
It’s Edinburgh Jim, but not as you know it
Walking. Displacement activity, filling up the day before the 5pm Finals posting or later walking the night away through a break up and I just had to be away from the house.
Walking can be sociable, even when I’m on my own, my (almost) daily walk takes me past friends and gives me a chance to catch up on news. And walking with DogS never fails to make me smile.
We have a local walking group too where people and dogs can socialise and explore.
Even if sometimes our feet get so wet there’s no point avoiding the puddles! (The walk which went with the snowy photo). Walking helps me think, plan, calm down when I need to.
Three different types of walks and walkers have their left footprints recently.
The first, walking as art Alexander and Susan Maris’ The Well at the World’s End a journey from Schiehallion to Iona passed fairly close by, the second and third pilgrimages but of different kinds came even closer. Charles Compton walking around the British mainland coastline* raising money for The Mental Health Foundation arrived in the morning and then after lunch (and my own much shorter walk) the third group, actual pilgrims walked and waded nearby.
So today, I’ve done my 10,000 steps and been standing a while so I’m giving my stripily suntanned feet a rest.
*including islands linked by bridges or non tidal causeways
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